best of ~ a parisian holiday: where to eat and drink.

best of: my favorite places to eat and drink in paris, originally posted last august.

since paris is known as a gastronomic’s paradise, it’s obvious that you could probably eat your way through paris without any help from me. but we ate at a few spots that really stood out for us, so i thought i’d mention just a few i think you may not want to miss. before i left on my trip, i researched quite a bit by watching shows like alice in paris, which is pretty cute, and she offers up a lot of foodie recommendations as she adventures around the city. i also searched instagram for ideas and saved them to my collection ‘paris’ folder for future reference. i created a guide to paris pinboard on pinterest for easy reference as well. i also always then go on google maps and favorite these spots with notes to myself on the map, so when i’m in a particular arrondissement, i can easily reference what restaurants are nearby. all i found really helpful when trying to remember where to go. my apologies for the lack of actual food photographs, but i get the feeling the french may kind of frown on it, and i didn’t want to be rude. might have also been i just wanted to eat it all and quickly! okay, on to a few gems we just loved. next up in my guide is shopping (and part one is here, and part two — shopping vintage is here).

you don’t want to miss clamato, part of the septime family of paris’s best new cafes, and make a reservation in advance of your trip if you’re able. if not, head over to their sister restaurant’s wine bar la cav du septime and sit and have a glass of wine (or two, as it may take a while) and wait for a table to open up at clamato. it will be well worth the seafood extravaganza you’ll enjoy in a cozy neighborhood vibe. we had a feast of oysters, cockles, and ceviche, which was all delicious. we didn’t get into septime, but it’s reportedly divine dining, too, and i have no doubt.

next up is jiji which we sadly never made it back to. we came upon it accidentally while shopping and couldn’t help but notice how cute it is.  it’s a small japanese kitchen in the marais district, and next time i’m back, i’ll be coming here for sure as the reviews are great, and with this much charm, i feel like it’s definitely worth a try. i actually noticed a lot of cafes with an east-asian-influence had opened up since i’d last been there, like a cute spot called bambou and their takeaway spot little bamboo (just below).

also on the same street as little bamboo, rue des jeuneurs near the Hoxton hotel in the 2nd arrondissement was rolls a funky little spot with fun graphics on the walls serving up fresh and healthy vietnamese spring roll recipes developed in accordance with vietnamese tradition with a touch of eccentricity and originality. they looked delicious!

okay, this spot in the off-the-beaten path of the 11th arrondissement is a do not miss! mokonuts was the most amazing meal, and we lingered there for a few hours over a couple of courses of fresh fish, labneh, and some ridiculously good bread, a rustic tomato salad, melt-in-your-mouth pork tenderloin, a bottle of wine, and some incredible homemade desserts and their famous cookies. it’s quite a petite place with only a few tables, making it that much cozier, so reservations are a must. they’re only open for breakfast and lunch so they can spend more together as a family, and while i wish they were also open for dinner, i admire their lifestyle goals — they work very hard while there to give you a really unique dining experience. mokonuts chef moko hirayama and her husband omar koreitem combine their cultures to create fresh, mouth-watering meals influenced by french, middle eastern, american, and japanese cuisines for us. go!

if you’re an oyster fan, i highly recommend dining at sur mer. we stopped in mid-afternoon and pulled up to an outside picnic table where we shared a glass of champagne each (because why not? it’s paris) and a dozen oysters along with their freshly baked bread. the perfect midday pick-me-up before another mile or so of walking and shopping.

one place i always visit at least a couple of times is rue montorgueil, a food lover’s paradise of both gourmet shopping and charming cafes. the street is mostly closed to traffic with the exception of a few cars or scooters here and there, and it’s the ideal spot to shop for groceries should you be staying in a private home or airbnb, and it’s got to be the best people watching around. i love to stop here for some frites and a kir royale to rest my aching feet and just take in the whole scene. my favorite cafe there is le compas, where they bring you an endless supply of delicious marinated olives to snack on with your aperitif. lots of locals shop rue montorgueil for their daily groceries, stopping at the butcher, the fish monger, cheese shops and incredibly lush fruit and vegetable stands, and of course, the pâtisseries. my favorite is stohrer which has been in business since 1761, and their eclairs and strawberry tarts make me weak — suffice it to say i ate several of each. you’ll also find my favorite french tea shop mariage frères (since 1854!), and i always come home with a tin or two. it just feels like old-world paris to me here, and a side note, it’s beautiful at Christmas time with lights strung across the streets and decorations in every shop window.

a really yummy and very casual cafe we came upon by chance after a really long day of walking was bistro le carreau in the 3rd arrondissement. we were hungry and tired, and it looked charming, so without any expectations, we were pleasantly surprised by some really good food. wonderful hummus, freshly homemade potato chips, and salads with a very local, neighborhood feeling. i’d definitely go back. and lastly, another place we found by wandering was bistrot vivienne which was delicious, too. they had an amazing salad nicoise, and their sorbets were divine. i hope that helps with your plans to eat your way through paris. bon appétit!

• all photography by victoria smith for sfgirlbybay.